As we already begin looking forward to 2018’s SIHH novelties, we thought it high time to have a better look at some of this season’s favorites, including the gloriously over-the-top 15202, left for the first time as a contemporary, non-limited reference entirely from 18-carat yellow gold. It’s not just the all-gold case that lends the 15202 relevance though — there are a couple additional (albeit more subtle) visual cues that set this specific reference aside, and might make it more desirable for collectors in the long run. Perhaps most obvious, is that the very simple time and date-only dial configuration, done by the ‘AP’ logo at 6:00, which pays direct homage to the original steel 5402 released in 1972. This aesthetic also tips its hat towards the yellowish gold 5402BA Jumbo released five decades later — the first time Audemars Piguet rendered the Jumbo in this precious metal.However, more notable is the thickness — the new 15202 steps a hair over 8mm, 0.2mm thicker than the first 5402, and the closest we’ve seen to those pioneering ultra-thin measurements since the 40th Anniversary variations from 2012 — thus the ‘Extra Thin’ naming convention. This new-but-really-old profile, coupled with all the eminently wearable 39mm case size truly feels like the sweet spot for your Royal Oak, and has much to do with why this iconic design managed to develop into this kind of future-proof classic in the first place.The Jumbo Royal Oak in its most classic arrangement is a wristwatch that historically, by all measurements, should wear exceptionally thin. But this new reference is one which still manages to jump off the wrist, as a result of its strong yellow gold case, and light-gobbling “Petite Tapisserie” tonal champagne colored waffle dial. People who are searching for a slightly more toned-down aesthetic still rendered within this precious metal will love the second of those 15202’s two brand new dial variants: a stunning blue, which, given the spate of blue-on-bronze sports watches we have seen this season, is as much on-trend, since it is slightly less ostentatious.
Three years ago Audemars Piguet gave its bestselling sports chronograph a major overhaul with an in-house movement as well as ceramic buttons and crown. Now a quartet of new models unveiled at SIHH 2017 joins the second generation Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph line-up, including a heavyweight version with a platinum case and bracelet.
The basic models are in stainless steel, starting with the blue on black (ref. 26470ST.OO.A028CR.01). This has a black dial with dark blue chronograph registers, matched with a dark blue chapter ring and alligator strap.
The other steel model has a brown dial (ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01) fitted with pink gold hands.
Then there’s the 18k yellow gold that has a blue dial and gilt sub-dials (ref. 26470BA.OO.1000BA.01) that’s anything but subtle. This is delivered on a matching 18k gold bracelet, but accompanied by a spare alligator strap and 18k gold pin buckle.
The top of the line version is the all-platinum (ref. 26470PT.OO.1000PT.01) that marks the return of the model to the catalogue after a hiatus of several years. Impractically but impressively heavy – it tips the scales at over a pound or half a kilo – the platinum Offshore is a limited edition of 50 pieces with a pale grey dial and black sub-dials. Like the yellow gold model, it’s accompanied by a spare alligator strap with a platinum pin buckle.
All four models share the same specs, with a 42mm case featuring a sapphire case back that reveals the calibre 3126/3840 inside.
Price and availability
The new Offshore Chronographs are available from Audemars Piguet retailers and boutiques, with Swiss francs priced excluding taxes as follows.
Steel and black ref. 26470ST.OO.A028CR.01 – SFr23,500
Steel and brown ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01 – SFr24,000
18k yellow gold ref. 26470BA.OO.1000BA.01 – SFr78,000
950 platinum ref. 26470PT.OO.1000PT.01 – SFr122,000